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Jivdhan Fort and Naneghat Trek : Part 1

“Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming “WOO-HOO what a ride!”

Just before 2 hours I returned home after 2 days journey, full of excitement and thrill. Yes, I went for the Trek to Jivadhan and Naneghat (2000 years old Ancient toll booth). It is the only thing where you will get perfect blend of Excitement and thrill.

I couldn't for tomorrow for sharing this pics and my experiences with my readers who are continuously supporting me.

Preparing for the Trek ?
Last week on Thursday we have decided that this weekend we will go to the Jivdhan fort for trekking. We asked many other friends also, many agreed. Whole friday went in emailing each other that what is needed. I got instructions from Nikhil (The most experienced trekker in our group) what all things we should carry.

Things to carry:
1. A proper knapsack with all inside luggage packed in plastic bags.
2. Complete spare set of clothes & socks
3. Water bottle (at least 1.5 ltr)
4. Electrical/ Glucon-d energizers and personal medication
5. Rain gear (jacket/raincoat etc.)
6. A sweater/warm wear
7. Good trekking shoes or good floaters
8. A sleeping bag / Thermocol mat and shawl / normal satranji and shawl
9. Plate, bowl, mug, spoon (compulsory)
10. Torch and extra batteries
11. Food: Everyone will require to carry lunch tiffins and some snacks for breakfast

While going through this list I was checking this list with the things I have and suddenly I realized that I don't have trekking shoes. I was not sure about my sports shoes whether those will be comfortable for trekking. Since it was a rainy season all the rocks becomes slippery. I have decided to buy one if I become free from office by 8:00pm. (very unachievable usual)

What about football practice?

I got a email from our Football captain that we will practicing on Saturday morning. He has written one nice statement in his email that "
don't get into morning dreams, just get up from bed and rush to the field to do real world things."

I was really smiling that I am going to go into arms of Mother nature and after reading the email, I was in dilemma that where should I go both the things are important for me.

Leader is down....No body is there to take over...
And that message box appeared on my screen telling about a new email. I got a email from Nikhil.

Guys, I am out. I cant make it, we have an emergency product update which cant be skipped. Someone take the ownership for making arrangements and logistics if any necessary. Attaching a map for this trek created by AMOD, hope that helps.
:-( :-(

"What the hell?" I asked myself. and I was right I started replys to Nikhils email from other members that they are also facing some problems for tomorrows trek and they will not be coming. At the end of the day me and Vineet left from the list of 8 people. And we got a emergency situation here.

Plan B

I got a call from Vineet at 11:00pm. "Lets meet right now at Sarasbaug Chopati (One of the late night restaurants in Pune)".

Vineet picked me and we went to Sarasbaug Chopati. We finalized tha plan that we will go to Tung-Tikona. We will start at 11:00am and we will come back till 4:00pm tomorrow.

We were about to leave and Vineet got a call from Nikhil that he is coming to meet us.

"I will try to finish my work by 10:00am and I will try to join you guys" Nikhil said. We said ok and we left from there.

Go..Go..Go... Leader is back.
"Hello", I answered the call with half opened eyes. "Hello, Vineet here, Get ready fast, Nikhil is done with his work and we are going to Jivdhan Fort. We are not going to Tung-Tikona" Vineet said.

I looked into the watch , it was 8:00am. I had sleep for only 4 hours and the other thing is I missed the football practice. So now at dont miss the trek get ready fast, I said to myself.

I started packing my bags and I realized that I don't have the two most important gears for the trek and it was "Backpack and Shoes".

For backpack I put all necesary things into my gym bag. And I decided to buy the shoes on the way. I reached Vineet place and Me, Nikhil and Vineet headed towards J M Road (One of the nice areas in Pune.)

Everywhere Police was there. It was president visit to the pune on that day, therefore lots of security force was there in the city.

I went into one of the shop and asked for the hunter shoes (This is the common brand used for the trekking). But shop owner said that he is out of stock for that shoe. I checked many other brands but it didn't clicked me. I returned to car and said to Nikhil " I will wear the sport shoes only".

"No, there is another shop at the corner, lets into digg it" Nikhil replied. I was not having any hope , we already checked into a big shop and if you don't have that shoe there who won't find it anywhere else. But sometimes you find the things at the places where you least expect.

"Bingo" I baught the "Trekker shoe from Action". Finally I got one nice pair of the shoe and everything is set we are ready to go towards the destination "Jivdhan Fort".

And the Journey begins....

We have to go by following route.

Pune->Rajgurunagar->Manchar->Narayan Gaon->Junnar->Bhatghar->Jivdhan Fort->Naneghat Caves

Click here to see the Wikimedia Map of the Jivdhan Fort.

The plan was we will be travelling to Junnar by road which is approximately a 3-4 hours drive. We will try reaching Ghatghar (a village at the foot of Jivdhan fort) by 2pm.

It was already 10:45am in the watch. The weather was excellent. Very cool air and the small drops of rain. A decent music of R D Burman and friends. "Wow, what a combination!!"

We crossed junnar and we were on the verge of entering the heaven. Both side of the road were full of rice farms. We were really wondering that have we ever wondered while eating the rice, how much amount of effort is there by these farmers to grow it. Hats off to the farmers.

( Farmers Planting Rice in the farm)

We talked to many farmers and we surprised by seeing there hospitality. There were so approachable. There faces was so fresh. There eyes was full of enthusiasm. This is the effect of pollution free simple living. And we keep complaining about our life.

(Road to the heaven)

(Finally Reached Ghatghar Village)

Finally we reached the Ghatghar village by 3:00pm (1 hour late :) ). You can see the Jivdhan fort at the background of the car. After doing litter maintenance of the car we started our Journey towards fort.

"We need Guide for the trek", Nikhil said. Since its rainy season, the roads will slippery it is better to the Local guide with us" he added.

"Do you need tea\coffee or food?" we got disturbed by a old lady's voice. "Can we get a guide?" Nikhil asked her.

We had tea at that lady's house. She provided us a Guide " Ganesh" was her brother. And he became our leader for the Jivdhan Trek.

From Ghatghar Village, one way goes to Naneghat and the other goes to the fort. Its much better till one reaches the steps. some of the steps have been destroyed and it has become slippery. From here we can reach the eastern part of the fort in 2 hours.

We told him that he will guide us to the Jivdhan fort, from there we will climb down through the kalyan darwaja and reach the Naneghat caves where we are going to stay. From there he can leave.

Ganesh was very talkative, he was doing the BA from Junnar. He told us that he wants to become a police officer. He is preparing for that. He started telling about the history of the fort.

Jivdhan History : (Ref: )

The whole range of these originated during the rule of Satvaahan era. This is clear from the entrances caved out in stone. The fort stands at an important position and most important guard of Naneghat. From here any help to Naneghat could reach in less time. It was under Bahamani control and after that it went to Nizamshah. In 1636, Nazamshahi declined. Shahajiraje rescued Murtiza, the last Nizam from Jivdhan and took with him to the fort of Pemgiri. But he was trapped by Mughals and had to hand him over to them. This was the end of Nazamshahi. In 1818, the British captured all the forts here and destroyed them. Jivdhan too became a victim and the main entrance was destroyed. Even today the mark of those wounds can not go unnoticed as we climb the fort.

Spots for Incredible experience:

Kothi (Storehouse)

Water cisterns


Northern Bastion

Idol of Goddess Jivai.

(Jivdhan Fort)
(Water Reserve in the Village)

(No Pain No Gain)

You can see Ganesh climbing the steps towards the fort. These steps are easy according to him.

(Koti - Store House)

Finally we reached at the top after 2 hours of rigourous journey. We were at Height of 3750 ft (~1143 m) from the main sea.

You can see the storehouse in the above picture. The ancient king used to store food and other necessary things over here. It contains 4 huge halls entirely carved inside the rock. I was really amazed.

Vineet , Ganesh and Nikhil at the door of Store house.

Roof of the entrance of the store house.

(Kalyan Darvaja)

After seeing store house and Water cisterns we started our journey down to the plateu. We came to Kalyan Darwaja.

(Kalyan Darvaja)

(Kalyan Darvaja)

Symbol on the Kalyan Darvaja : Moon, Kalash (Holy vessel with holy water) and Sun

(Very Simple route, huh)

Again the route which was easy from the Ganesh's angle was very difficult for me. You can see it in the above picture.

(Beautiful Pleatu)

Again after 2 hours journey we reached at the bottom of the fort and What a scene was there!!".

(The vally from the plateu)

Do you have any other defination of heaven than this? After spending few minutes at the plateu, Ganesh alarmed us that its already 7:00pm lets hurry and reach Naneghat caves before it become two dark.

we followed him.

And this was the end of part 1 of the Jivdhan-Naneghat Trek. Please wait for Part 2 where I will share our experience of Night at Naneghat caves.

To read Part 2 please click here


unixdoc said…
Quite a description for the series of events.. way to go, a-pratim naration ;))

Waiting for the part2 :P :P :P :P
Neglected Soul said…
next time u go call me too... :)
Vikas Chitale
Neglected Soul said…
Great Experince even while reading...
Next time u go dont forget to call me...
Vikas Chitale
@UnixDoc and maverick

Thank you very much for your support!!!
Thanks Vikas, I definitly call you next time.
Vinit said…
ek number describe kela ahes :)
Hey Vineet, Thanks a lot. :)
Punam said…
hmm...beautiful description of a wonderful and scenic place..I wish I cud have been a part of this trip.
Hey Poo,

You can join us to next trek. We are planning for Tung-Tikona.

I will let you know in advance before the trek.


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